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'Breath of fresh air' truce brings hope to Ukraine's ravaged Kherson
Gardener Volodymyr Omeltchenko, rake in hand, looked up at the sky with an expression of near disbelief -- only the pitter-patter of rain and the sound of a lawnmower broke the silence of Freedom Square, a central area of the Ukrainian city of Kherson which has been relentlessly bombarded by Russian forces.
Over the past three days, a humanitarian ceasefire that has made it possible to evacuate inhabitants of Oleshky, a nearby town under Russian occupation and gripped by hunger.
That ceasefire has been a "breath of fresh air", said the 38-year-old father with piercing blue eyes.
But that respite is short lived, as it is due to expire on Sunday.
"We have to use this time to get things done... we're pruning the rose bushes for winter," he said.
Towering over the threadbare lawn, Omeltchenko worked on what was the seat of the regional administration -- an imposing white stone Stalinist-era building almost completely razed by Russian strikes last year.
Only the side wings remain, bearing testimony to its former splendour.
The Russian army seized Kherson in 2022 and occupied it for eight months before Kyiv's forces took back control.
It has since become one of the most dangerous cities in Ukraine for civilians.
The Russian army has rained down glide bombs, missiles and drones that hunt people down in the streets -- such as a vegetable seller or workers repairing a roof -- as chilling reels posted on Telegram by Russian soldiers show.
- Swarms of drones -
Daily life in Kherson is now horrific.
"Drones fly over constantly, in swarms. To get to work, we move on foot, from tree to tree, hiding as we go," said Omeltchenko, who can walk like this for an hour every morning, because driving is even more dangerous.
Vehicles are systematically targeted.
"Of course I'm afraid. But we have no choice. Where would we go and where's the money? There's practically nowhere left to go" he said, resigned to staying in the city with his wife and children despite the likely resumption of hostilities as soon as the truce ends. And a harsh winter looms.
Around 63,000 people still live in Kherson, compared with more than 280,000 before the Russian invasion, according to Oleksandr Tolokonnikov, deputy head of communications for the regional administration.
"Russia is trying to make Kherson uninhabitable, but it will not succeed in paralysing the city," he told AFP.
"Despite all the threats, residents keep working and do everything in their power every day to keep Kherson alive."
People try to use routes covered by anti-drone nets, which according to Tolokonnikov stretch over more than 70 kilometres (45 miles) in the city.
The region has 15 underground hospitals, with 11 more under construction.
"We've got used to it," said Iryna Chapoval, 51, who works in a clinic.
"We try to stay positive: you have to take care of yourself, stay very alert to avoid being hit. We live in a state of permanent alert, never letting our guard down," said the lively woman in her fifties.
- 'We've already seen it all' -
No one is under any illusions. The war will resume as soon as the ceasefire shortly before 11:00 pm on Sunday.
"It's quite possible that they are moving equipment," said Ivan, 50, standing amid the shells of burned-out cars, referring to Russian troops.
The electrical engineer, who only gave his first name, has sent his wife and 10-year-old daughter to a calmer town away from the front line.
But he is staying despite the fact that the facade of his building was ripped open by a guided aerial bomb.
"If everyone leaves, the city will become empty, lifeless," he said.
Kostiantyn, who also gave one name, sells pet food and says he has not taken "a single day off" in months.
"There are a lot of (abandoned) animals here and they have to be fed," the 45-year-old said.
He shrugged off the prospect of more fighting. "Occupation, liberation, bombardments… honestly, how could it be worse? We've already seen it all."
B.Baumann--VB