Volkswacht Bodensee - First ever Birkin bag to be auctioned in July

The large black leather tote, whose design went on to become one of the most famous and expensive bags in the world, will be the centrepiece of the "Fashion Icons" sale, the auction house said.

This "historic, handcrafted prototype", engraved with the initials J.B., has several unique features, Sotheby's said, including closed metal rings, non-detachable shoulder strap and a built-in nail clipper.

The birth of the Birkin bag has become a modern fashion legend.

During a Paris–London flight, the Anglo-French singer and actress -- who died in 2023 -- complained to a fellow traveller about not being able to find a bag suited to her needs as a young mother.

That fellow passenger happened to be Jean-Louis Dumas, then head of Hermes.

The result of their conversation was a spacious tote with room for baby bottles, created in 1984 and named the Birkin.

Forty years later, the leather handbag has become the flagship product of the luxury French leather goods maker.

Produced in very limited numbers, it maintains an aura of exclusivity, with prices ranging from several thousand euros for the simplest models to several hundred thousand for the most luxurious.

Beloved by celebrities including Khloe Kardashian, Jennifer Lopez and Victoria Beckham, the bags are not displayed in shops and cannot be ordered online.

The prototype Birkin will be exhibited at Sotheby's in New York from June 6 to 12 before being put on show in the French capital before the sale.

In addition to the Birkin bag, the Sotheby's sale will feature iconic runway pieces from designers including Christian Dior, John Galliano, Thierry Mugler and Alexander McQueen.

Bidding will open online on June 26 and close on July 10.

P.Staeheli--VB